History of Silk

History credits the Chinese Empress Hsi-Ling-Shi, The Goddess of Silk, with the discovery of silk and its potential in the 27th century BC. Since then, and for thousands of years, the processing of silk filaments and weaving silk fabrics was a closely held secret known only to the Chinese. Although silk production has spread throughout the Far East and Europe, Chinese silk produced by the Bombyx mori (a specialized silk producing worm) is smoother, finer, and rounder than other silks and to this day – the most coveted.

Processing Silk

Producing the world’s finest silk is a lengthy process demanding close attention to exacting conditions and times. For example, specific temperatures that are gradually increased are essential for silkworms to hatch. In addition, the only food source for silk worms is handpicked and chopped mulberry leaves. If fact, silk is so important to China’s economy, and mulberry leaves so essential to the production, that farming the mulberry bush is, itself, a very large and essential industry.

Silkworms feed so voraciously on mulberry leaves that it will increase its weight by 10,000 times within a month prior to beginning the cocoon stage. To create its protective cocoon, the worms produce a protein based, jelly-like substance from silk glands – a silk filament, which hardens upon contact with the air. The cocoon process requires about eight days for completing.

The silk filament, which can reach lengths of up to one mile, is unwound from the cocoons through the process of reeling of filature. First, the cocoons are heated in water to dissolve the outside, gummy substance. Next, the silk filament is unwound from the cocoon from one end. This single filament of one cocoon is joined and twisted with the filaments of four to eight other cocoons. Finally, these filaments are joined and twisted again with other similarly twisted filaments to make a thread. The silk thread is continuous and is comprised of very long fibers – unlike other natural fibers such as cotton or wool.

Silk Fabric

Now as a thread, silk is woven in many different was to create fabric. For example, silk charmeuse, also referred to as silk satin is very popular, and most often recognized for its ultra-smooth feel and vibrant sheen. Silk is also woven into, jacquard, matelasse and other fabrics – each with its own unique characteristics.

Momme Weight

You may be familiar with the term "thread count" when grading cotton fabrics as an indicator of quality. Silk is graded by a different standard - referred to in the industry as the "momme weight" system. The momme weight of silk is simply the weight, in pounds, of silk fabric measuring a standard 100 yards by 45 inches. For example, a standard measure of silk fabric weighing 2 ounces per linear yard would be a 12.5 momme weight (2/16 x 100) silk fabric. Higher momme weights indicate that more silk is used in the weaving process. Silk fabric is woven in varying momme weights based the desired look, feel, drape and use of the fabric.